Food will arrive fast and piping hot finding someone to flag down to pay your check will take several minutes. Take a walk on the waterfront while you inevitably wait (this place is popular) for a table. Still, even the misses so far at Dough Zone feel low stakes thanks to the low prices go a few times and find your own personal favorites. Skip the underseasoned kale salad ($5.95) with thick stems left in the mix, as well as the zha jiang mian ($6.50), an underwhelming bowl of boiled noodles and veggies. Dan dan noodles with pork ($6.25) and the cold Szechuan noodles ($6.25) are both solid again, neither is spicy enough, yet they are flavored well otherwise and perfectly chewy. A spiralized sweet-and-sour cucumber appetizer ($5.75) is a refreshing counterpoint to the heavier stuff, and lightly blanched broccoli with a seafood sauce for dipping ($5.95) was strangely simple yet compelling. Make sure to adequately tour the menu’s other offerings.
Do others do it a smidge better? Sure, but Dough Zone is a worthy entry to Portland’s growing XLB market. They are well seasoned, filling, and not too chewy. The xiao long bao are the best deal in the city: Score an order of six for $7.95.
Get it right and you’ll have one of your best bites of the day.ĭumplings, overall, are the star, from a succulent chicken pot sticker with a crispy laced bottom (don’t go for its veggie counterpart, which was sadly bland), to classic wontons in chile oil that hit the right textural mark, if not quite reaching a level of true spiciness. Steamed and then pan fried till crispy on the bottom, the bao contains pork and juices similar to a xiao long bao: If you sink your teeth in too soon, you’ll burn your mouth wait too long and that juicy goodness is absorbed by the dough.
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You’ll need to learn how to properly time your first bite into Dough Zone’s signature Q Bun ($8.95 for four). Fill a table with spicy beef pancake rolls, flaky grilled dough wrapped around shredded beef and lettuce that’s somehow hearty and light, and throw in some Berkshire-Duroc pork-and-shrimp steamed dumplings, which arrive six to a steamer with the shrimp tails emerging from the chewy dumpling wrapper like a sail. It’s best if you keep in mind that this is still a casual business-a place to go with friends and order a smorgasbord. It’s an environment suited for a $200 prix fixe meal, but instead menu items run about $6 to $12, making it an uncanny cafeteria. It starts with that huge main room, designed with sleek lines, wood-paneled walls and dramatic, spiraling light fixtures. Successive ventures there in the decade since have also collapsed.ĭough Zone, a Seattle dim sum darling with its first Portland outpost, must have come in with some industrial-sized sage sticks: Early on, it seems to have what it takes to lift the yearslong funk at 1910 S River Drive. Investors sank $4 million into the operation, which was universally panned and then closed just seven months after it opened in 2008.
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The eye-popping 7,657-square-foot space, with floor-to-ceiling windows looking onto the Willamette River, was once home to the most high-profile flop in Portland dining history: Lucier. You’ll never go to a haunted house so open and bright as the one that holds the new Dough Zone on the South Waterfront.
Dough Zone (THOMAS TEAL) By Andrea Damewood Jat 6:00 am PDT
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